A pizza revival?

Close up of pizza. Before being one of the favorite dishes of the French, who are the second biggest consumers behind the United States but ahead of the Italians, pizza is a symbol of happy globalization, as a chapter of The grocery store of the world which retraces the global adventure of food products since the 18th century (link to issue of September 10 ). This popular dish has won its letters of nobility by being exported to the four corners of the world, and now even the great chefs are interested in it. The craze is such today that in the United States a 1,700-page encyclopedia in 3 volumes and 1,000 recipes has appeared, and that the entire new season of the Chef’s Table culinary series is devoted to pizza. But for a long time, the methods and practices of certain industrialists remained far from Neapolitan artisanal pizzas, the scandal in March 22 of the Buitoni frozen pizzas contaminated by a bacterium was a sad revelation of this. Today pizza is (re) going upscale and seems to want to return to its origins, rediscover its taste and know-how with a new generation of pizza makers. The revival of pizza is the subject of Les Bonnes choses this afternoon…

For further :

  • Peppe Pizzeria2 place Saint-Blaise 75020 Paris

  • Dimore d’Italia: secret recipes of Italian palates, Alba Pezone, Hachette PratiqueEditions, (to be published at the end of Nov. 22)
  • The triplet

  • Pizza, Cultures and GlobalizationSylvie Sanchez, CNRS Editions, (coll. Biblis, 2016).

  • Pizza, the story of a happy globalizationby Anne-Sophie Boutaud, CNRS Journal article, 07/12/17

  • Buitoni pizzas: chain negligence? A report by Special Envoy, 27/10/22

Enzo Piccirillo’s recipe for “fritta” pizza

The pizza dough The dough

  • 1kg flour 00
  • 600g water
  • 35g of salt
  • 10 g fresh baker’s yeast
  • 2 l peanut oil (for frying)

The stuffing for 1 battilocchio with ricotta and tomato

  • 40g ricotta, drained
  • 40 g cicoli (rillons), diced
  • 80g smoked provola or scamorza, diced
  • 20 g passata (dense coulis) of tomatoes
  • black pepper from the mill

Prepare the pizza dough. Pour the water into a bowl. Dissolve the salt and yeast in it. Add the flour gradually, in rain. Knead vigorously, so as to oxygenate and soften the dough which is gradually forming. Knead for 15 minutes, until you obtain a smooth and homogeneous dough. When the dough has absorbed all the flour, take it out of the bowl and continue kneading on the work surface to air it and stretch it, for 5 minutes. Cut the dough into balls of 110-120 g. Place the balls on a lightly floured high-sided baking sheet, spacing them apart. Film the plate, to prevent the dough from crusting. Leave to rise in a dry, temperate place, away from drafts, for 6 hours: the dough should triple in volume.

Prepare the stuffing. Once this rising time has elapsed, heat the oil in a wide and fairly deep saucepan: it must be hot but not smoking. Prepare the battilocchio. On a lightly floured work surface, spread the dough thinly with your fingertips, widening the disc from the center outwards. Place the stuffing (the one of your choice) in the middle, leaving an edge of at least 1.5 cm, then fold the disc into a half-moon. Seal the edges well with your fingertips, then lightly punch all around. Lifting the battilocchio from the worktop, stretch it by the tips. Immerse it in the frying bath. Using a slotted spoon, sprinkle hot oil on the non-immersed side: it will be “blown” by the heat. As soon as the underside takes on a nice golden colour, turn the battilocchio over and let the other side brown. Drain the battilocchio on absorbent paper and enjoy immediately.

Variant. You can prepare the dough in a mixer. Proceed in the same way and knead at speed 1 for 15 min, to oxygenate the dough without overheating it. Finish kneading on the work surface, stretching the dough.

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